September and October are the premier times for tree planting. The ground is warm and the air is cool encouraging optimal root development. However, anytime the ground is not frozen it is possible to plant trees as long as specific guidelines are followed. Evergreen trees should be planted well in advance of winter weather to allow sufficient time to establish roots and acclimate to the new planting location. 

Two of the most important factors to consider when planting are planting at the right depth and making sure to supply enough moisture. These factors are even more important considerations when planting outside the fall months. The phrase “Bare the Flare” refers to making sure to leave the root flare (the area where the trunk meets the roots) exposed when planting. Failure to do so will cause the tree to decay where the trunk tissue is buried leading to the decline of the tree. In addition, consider the following guidelines when planning planting projects.

Key steps in planting a tree are 

1. Choose a planting location with the full mature size of the tree in mind. Consider utilities, structures, and elevation.
2. Look for the root flare on the tree. *Note: often the root flare is buried in the root ball or covered by excess soil in the container.
3. Make sure to dig a hole at least 2 – 2 ½ times the width, but no deeper than the height of the current rootball. 
4. If the tree is a balled and burlapped variety, remove all the burlap if doing so does not compromise the integrity of the root ball. If removing all the burlap causes breaks in the rootball, place the tree in the hole, pull back and cut the burlap as far down as possible. 
5. Once the planting location is achieved, ensure the root flare has not been altered. Reexpose if needed.
6. Ensure the tree is straight in the hole. Adjust as needed. Fill the hole with water and allow it to drain before backfilling the soil around the root ball. When backfilling soil, make sure not to bury the root flare. It is better to plant a tree slightly high than to plant too deep (i.e. avoid burying the root flare). Gently tamp down the soil and water thoroughly with a slow flow to ensure adequate soaking into the soil. 
7. Staking of deciduous trees may be needed especially in windy locations. Do not leave stakes attached to the tree for longer than 1 year. 

When creating planters at home, and for customers, I often use what is already available. I love the natural look of dogwood branches, evergreens, and paper birch. Any branches will work though. You can spray them with snow spray, glitter spray, or spray paint to jazz them up if you wish. Add bows, ornaments, snow men etc. to induce the personal touches you want to add.

When cutting or purchasing material, make sure to use long branches so you can sink at least 1/3rd of the length into the planter. As the soil in the container freezes, it will hold the branches in place until spring thaw. If you find the top layer of the soil has already frozen making it difficult to push the branches in place, you can use a bulb auger drill bit if you have one. Otherwise, you can use a fiberglass rod, sharp stick, or anything else that is hard with a pointed end to break through the surface so you don’t break your branches when inserting. 

The planter above is identical to one near it. It took me about 30 minutes to put them both together once I had all the material gathered. I used a 3 inch bulb auger from Power Planter on my drill to predrill large holes for the thick birch branches. I was able to push the red dogwood and juniper branches through with my hands since the soil was still pretty loose. I may wire some pinecones onto the juniper and add some snow spray to add a little extra detail. Or not… I haven’t decided. That is the fun thing with winter planters. You can add lights or other embellishments as you see fit. 

Fall is a great time for plants. The soil warmed throughout the summer provides the ideal condition for plant root growth. In addition, the cool air reduces stress on plants, especially newly planted ones. Whether your evergreens are newly planted or have been around for awhile, there are a few fall tips that are useful to all evergreens in the midwest.

First, just a reminder of what an evergreen is. Evergreens are plants that retain their foliage throughout the year. They may or may not be “green” and they may actually have leaves like those on Boxwood or leaves more commonly referred to as needles like those on Spruce trees. 

You can expect evergreens that are conifers (woody plants that bear their seeds in cones) to have some needle drop in the fall. If you see yellowing of needles at other times of the year they are likely suffering from lack of water or another ailment. To combat yellowing of needles in spring, it is important to make sure the plants are well watered going into winter. They should be watered thoroughly until the ground is frozen. Keep in mind the ground doesn’t freeze until well beyond the first frost. The ground typically begins to freeze when the night time temperature is well below 32°F for many days and nights in a row. This can occur as early as Thanksgiving, but often not until well into December.

Winter burn can be commonly seen in evergreens during bitterly cold winters. This often doesn’t show up until spring as the plants are breaking dormancy. Wilt Stop or another type of anti-dessicant spray can be used to help prevent evergreens from losing moisture. The application generally requires a thorough spraying of the plants to coat all surfaces. This adds a protective coating on the leaves. However, make sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions on whatever product you are using. The spray can also be used on real Christmas trees and wreaths to maintain moisture. 

What are tree suckers and why do they form?

There are many trees that develop tree suckers. Ornamentals such as lilacs on standards, crabapples, ornamental pear, and fruit trees often form suckers at their base. Tree suckers appear as shoots or branches directed upright at the base of a tree. They are a common maintenance issue in spring and during the growing season on many ornamental trees. Sometimes, they indicate the tree is stressed. On ornamentals, they are most often the result of a vigorous root system. Often an ornamental tree with attractive features is grafted onto a less desirable, but hardier and more robust root system. This robust root system can be more prone to suckering.

What should I do with the suckers?

It is best to keep up with pruning tree suckers as they occur during the growing season. The longer they are left to grow the thicker, more numerous, and more difficult they will be to cut. Removal often requires cutting back into the soil to determine the origin of the sucker and making your cut with sharp pruning shears. Making a cut at soil level and leaving a nub, often encourages more suckers. If suckers are left to grow, the upright branches can overtake the tree or shrub. In addition, the vigorous rootstock will take nutrients from the more desirable portion of the tree or shrub. Typically, the leaves, fruit, flowers, etc that are produced from rootstock suckers are inferior to the main upper ornamental portion of the tree of shrub.

Should I spray herbicide or sucker killer on the sprouts?

I have found no qualified recommendations for spraying an herbicide or sprout stopper on suckers. The risk of damage to the desirable part of the tree is too likely. Enough research has not been done on the effectiveness of any such products. The best defense is keeping the trees healthy, monitor frequently, and remove sprouts as they occur.