Category: Flowers

Dried flowers, also known as everlasting flowers, capture the fleeting beauty of fresh flowers. 

They are known to last months and often years. No need for fresh water here! They require no cleaning of vases or fresh water.  

Talk about sustainability. These fit the bill. If you do tire of them, you can add them to the compost pile.

If you are like me and hate to waste a beautiful flower, there are many ways you can utilize every last petal.

Here are a few ideas…

• Create dried floral wreaths
• Make potpourri 
• Create simmer pots
• Dry a fresh bouquet and display it dried in a vase
• Make flower casts
• Create monoprints/ impressions
• Press the flowers between the pages of a book or in a flower press, and use them to make ornaments, bookmarks, and keepsakes.

It’s late May in Wisconsin and the weather is comfortable. It’s a perfect day for a walk. As my dog and I exited town onto a quiet road, I saw a beautiful site. I already knew before getting close that although it looks beautiful, what I was really looking at along the railroad tracks, was an invasive plant species. It is commonly known as Dame’s rocket. Dame’s Rocket was introduced in the 1600’s during European Settlement. It is a pretty plant that looks quite similar to garden phlox. Unfortunately, it spreads quickly taking over areas and displacing native plants. 

Dame’s rocket typically blooms in southern Wisconsin in May and June. It can easily be distinguished from garden phlox, because it has 4 flower petals rather than the 5.

What can you do to stop the spread of this invasive plant? If you see it growing in your garden, or an area you manage, remove it. It is especially important not to allow it to go to seed. Then, after you remove it, plant a native species in its place. 

Many plants benefit from pruning each year. Lilacs are no exception. However, it is typically desirable to time your pruning for just after the plants have bloomed to avoid cutting off next year’s flower buds. However, minimal amounts of pruning can be done at any time without sacrificing many blooms.

The first step in any pruning project is to make an assessment. Stand back and take a look at the shrub from all angles if possible. Determine what your overall goal is for the shrub and consider its age. Is it a new shrub in need of training or is it an older established shrub? Before removing any living branches, cut back any dead branches and reassess what is left. 

There are generally three routes to go when pruning a shrub. You can prune to train a younger shrub, prune to maintain, or prune to rejuvenate the shrub. When training a young shrub, minimal pruning is recommended. The focus should be on removing dead or broken branches as well as branches that are twisted around and/or crowding other branches. No more than 15% should be removed on young shrubs. Older shrubs, those 5 years old and older, benefit from regenerative pruning. This type of pruning addresses the legginess that is often associated with many types of lilac shrubs. The oldest branches should be removed to the ground rather than removing the new shoots. The new young shoots should be left in place. Twisted or crossing branches should be removed back to the branch collar. Minor shaping can be done to maintain a natural vase shaped habit. Finally, renewal pruning is typically reserved for those shrubs that have not received regular maintenance over the years. Usually, the shrub only has flowers at the tips of its branches. In this case, all the large, old branches are cut to the ground. It will likely take several years for the shrub to have flowers again. If the shrub is already in declining condition, the shrub may not recover from this type of pruning. 

Lilacs are some of the most beloved shrubs. They often bring back memories of wonderful fragrances and old homesteads. Starting a maintenance plan when they are young will keep your lilacs around for years to come. 

Oh my Hellebores how do I love thee!!! While many refer to these perennials as Lenten Rose because of their bloom time, I was introduced to them as Hellebore. AKA Helleborus which is their botanical name.

I received my first Hellebore as a split from one of my customer’s well established large clumps. When she asked me if I wanted one, I was totally unfamiliar with Hellebores and only said yes to be polite. There she was with her shovel digging up a clump and sticking it in a bucket for me to take. I wasn’t sure where I was going to plant it or if I even wanted it at the time. 

I planted the Hellebore soon after I received it, but I didn’t pay much attention to it for the first year or so. Then, in early spring as I was taking a slow stroll through my garden, its blooms caught me by surprise. The blooms were only slightly noticeable and facing downward, but when I gently cupped them in my hand for a better look I was shocked about how beautiful and unique they looked. I began paying more attention to this little treasure I had previously ignored. What I found striking about the plant was that it looked beautiful almost year round. The blooms even looked interesting when they were past their prime and were just dried flowers and seed heads. They were just as fascinating as when they were in full bloom.

 Why am I sharing this? I don’t want you to pass them by like I almost did. The last couple of decades have brought a resurgence in popularity to these beauties. The older varieties mostly had downward facing flowers so quite often they went unnoticed like I almost did. Although all the newer varieties don’t have upward facing blooms, they do have showier blooms either upfacing, double, or unique colors or patterns. Personally, I am loving the Ice N’ Roses line, but there are so many beauties. There really isn’t any one type I haven’t found something to like about it.

Another unique trait about Hellebores is that they are in most cases evergreen. In my zone 5b climate, when the snow melts, the Hellebore foliage is usually in pretty good shape with only a slight pruning needed to remove a few winter damaged leaves. I love using them for cut flowers. They seem to last forever. These plants thrive in shaded areas where others fail. If you think of where most Hostas typically like to grow, that is where this plant will excel. 

So if anyone ever offers you a split from their established Hellebore plant, make sure you take it! I am so glad I did.

They are Grown Truly Locally

Did you know almost 80 percent of fresh flowers sold in the United States and Canada are not grown in North America? Flowers grown in your neighborhood reduce the carbon footprint by the short distance they travel from field to table. They avoid the huge amounts of waste attributed to flowers shipped worldwide. They are also void of the chemical pesticides or fungicide residues often found on shipped flowers.

They are Fresh

You will find remarkably fresh, long-lasting flowers from local farmers (including Waterloo, Wisconsin grown Red Bilita Flowers). They are not picked weeks ago, but actually within hours from cutting in the field to placing in a vase on your table.

They Are Responsibly Grown

Local growers strive to produce flowers using responsible farming methods like integrated pest management, crop diversification, and low-input fertilization programs. These methods promote the conservation of water, health of the soil, and biodiversity.

They Support the Local Economy

The production and sale of locally-grown cut flowers contribute to a community’s economy, and provide employment and valuable agriculture experience to many within the community and nearby.

They Smell Better

Many commodity-type flowers have been bred for uniformity and to fit into a box. They often lose their natural fragrance in the process. Locally-grown flowers are produced in greater varieties, providing a wide range of colors, forms, and scents.

They Make You Feel Better

Flowers reduce stress and just plain old make you happy. Quite often, flowers can be connected to a memory of an event, a person, or a time in life. They are part of everyone’s story.

They Are Unique

Local cut flower growers are a creative group of people. They are passionate about flowers and strive to grow an incredibly diverse selection of flowers as well as foliage, stems, and fruits. Many of the flowers you can buy locally from a flower farmer, can not be bought in or shipped due to their delicate nature. You can let your creative juices flow as well by designing your own bouquet work of art with locally sourced materials.

1. Are Sunflowers Annuals, Biennials, or Perennials?

It depends on the variety you are using. Many plants are commonly referred to as sunflowers. The botanical name for Common or Annual Sunflower is Helianthus annuus. There are many varieties from large 1 ft and larger flowers heads used for seed production to smaller headed beauties useful for cut flowers. These plants do tend to self seed so people often think of them as a perennial. However, the main plant will die after a frost.  If you allow the seed heads to stay in place over winter, they will often sprout new plants from the dropped seeds the next year. 

Heliopsis helianthoides is the botanical name often associated with perennial sunflowers. These look like mini sunflowers. They are a perennial flower returning year after year in Wisconsin. Make sure this is the look you are going for before planting though since they are more similar looking to Black Eyed Susans or Yellow Coneflowers in size than the traditional annual Sunflower.

2. How late can I plant Sunflowers seeds and still get blooms?

The time it takes from seed planting to bloom depends on the variety. Here in Wisconsin, annual Sunflowers are one of the quickest to bloom after planting. Some varieties can bloom as soon as 50 days from planting. If you are using seeds that have come in a seed packet, make sure to reference the maturity time from planting to flowering. When in doubt, keep in mind the range for most annual Sunflowers is 50- 85 days. Since first frost dates vary through southern Wisconsin, it is best to plant the last of the sunflower seeds by the beginning of August. 

3. Where is the best spot to plant sunflowers?

As the name says, these flowers like the sun! Plant sunflowers in well drained soil with at least 6-8 hours of sun. They are not particularly picky though, since they can often be seen growing happily under bird feeders and in other places where the seeds drop. 

4. Can I save the seeds from my sunflowers?

Yes, you can! Your intended purpose will determine your next step. One easy option is to leave them in place to dry outside for the birds. The birds will eat off the plant through the fall, winter, and spring (if there are any left). Some seeds often drop and self sow when the conditions are right the following late spring or early summer. You can also cut the plants and put the whole head into a paper bag to dry. The seeds can be plucked off and saved for later.

5. How big do sunflower plants get?

There are tons of different varieties ranging from 1 ft tall to over 15 ft tall. The taller varieties are typically the ones that are good for large seed heads. Large seed heads are great for wowing the kids and/or feeding the birds. Generally, a midrange type is best for cut flowers. Some of my favorites for cut flowers are from the ProCut ® series. ProCut ®   are single stem varieties with a height of 5-6 ft and come in a multitude of colors with a pollenless flower size of about 4-6 inches. 

Strawflower – Xerochrysum bracteatum

I fell in love with this flower from the moment I grew my first seed. Easy to start from seed and low maintenance, this annual is a must have in any cut flower garden. A heat lover, this annual doesn’t require any special care to bloom prolifically all summer long.

Strawflowers are a cut-and-come again annual flower. This means, as you cut flowers from it throughout the summer, the more they will continue to produce.

Often called “everlasting flower”, the name is well suited. These flowers maintain their color and crinkly petals whether fresh or dried. They can be cut at multiple stages of maturity, from closed to fully open, for a variety of different looks. Strawflowers hold up fabulously as both a fresh cut or dried flower.

Snapdragon – Antirrhinum majus

Snapdragons make a happy, colorful, spiked, annual flower. The blooms open from the bottom up creating a long lasting blooming period. Snapdragons are one of my favorites because they add a different shape to the flower mix, readily self seed, and can handle some frost. 

Keep in mind, Snapdragons are geotropic which means they are sensitive to gravity. If you cut them, but the stems are not supported, they will bend. Once bent for a couple hours, they will stay that way. This only matters if you will be using them as a cut flower. If using as a cut flower, make sure to condition the stems in a tall bucket for a few hours to fixate the stems in an upright position before arranging in a vase.

Statice – Limonium sinuatum

There are many types of Statice and so far I have not met one I do not like. Here I will focus on one of the most common and recognizable types, Limonium sinuatum. 

Statice is an easy to grow annual from seed. Like most of my favorites, it is an easy maintenance and low care annual. It comes in a variety of colors and shades of blue, purple, white, yellow, salmon, and pink. 

It is possible to collect seeds from Statice and it is possible they will reseed in the garden. However, neither is as likely or as easy as other annuals on this list. They do make a fabulous dried flower that can be dried easily either upright or upside down.

Yarrow – Achillea millefolium

This is one of easiest perennials to grow from seed making it a very economical plant. In its native form, it is white, but it comes in a multitude of colors. Reds, oranges, yellow, hot pink, pastels, and the list goes on. Keep in mind that if you collect the seed from the plant, it may be true to the parent, but often the color will differ from the original flower. Yarrow blooms the same year when starting from seed in late winter/ early spring.

Yarrow is also quite versatile in its uses. It grows prolifically in the yard as a perennial bloomer, but it has other uses beyond the landscape. It holds up well as a cut flower lasting well beyond a week in a cut flower bouquet. It can also be dried by bunching it together and hanging it upside down for use as a dried bouquet or a craft project. It retains its color well as a dried flower.

Zinnia – Zinnia elegans

Growing Zinnia will make you feel like a true Master Gardener. They are quite easy to grow and a perfect starter annual flower for a beginner gardener. 

Zinnia are a cheerful summer flower that can be found in many different colors and color combinations including pinks, oranges, reds, greens, yellows, and whites. They come in petite sizes of 1-2 inches up to 4-6 inches wide with heights ranging from 1-4 ft. They thrive on minimal care and hot, sunny locations.

 I typically have many different varieties growing on my flower farm, but my favorites are the Benary’s Giant Series and the Queen Series. The Benary’s have large blooms of Orange, Lime, Red, Yellow, Salmon and Purple. Queen Series have stunning blends of color combinations of rose, peach, lemon, lime, and orange.

If flower heads are left to self seed, you will be blessed with flowers the next year. Keep in mind, the flowers will likely be quite beautiful but may not look like the variety you initially planted.

 

My flower farm is on ½ acre. In such a small growing area, thoughtful use of the space is very important. The main goal is to bring home grown flowers to my neighbors and friends to improve their lives. My long term goal is to have a variety of flowers available throughout the year.

When naming the flower farm entity of my business, I wanted to be sure to choose something that would not be likely duplicated and that would always have meaning to me. You see, my main business name, Shawn L. Vieth LLC, is purposely self named. The intent is to always have my name front and center as a sense of pride in who I am and how I conduct business. The flower farm name, Red Bilita Flowers, has a dual meaning and was initially chosen based on sentiment. 

The first meaning is a personal one.  I wanted to pay homage to some of my family members who have meant the most to me throughout my life, but are now only with me in spirit. Red Bilita is a combination of my maternal grandfather Leonard’s nickname of Red, my father’s name Bill, and my maternal grandmother Juanita’s nickname of Nita. 

The second meaning was discovered by accident. I was Googling the word Bilita to ensure it did not carry any undesirable interpretation. As I searched, I discovered the phrase Bilita Mpash. It is the complete opposite of a nightmare, but better than a good dream. It is a “legendary, blissful state where all is forgiven and forgotten.” I just loved that ideology. It rang true to the feeling I get when I am with my flowers. It solidified my name choice, since I am in my own blissful state when I am among the flowers.

Annuals

The easiest way to think of annuals is to think of them as plants that go from seed to seed in one year or annually. 

1. You plant the seed (or buy a seedling/or young plant). 
2. The plant grows and flowers.
3. The plant sets seed.
4. The plant dies.

 The most common annual plants known to most people are the plants you buy at the garden center each spring and early summer. Some plants that come to mind are some common flowers, vegetables, and fruits like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, zinnia, cosmos, impatiens, and petunias. Annuals can be further divided into two groups called cool season annuals and warm season annuals.

Cool Season Annuals

Cool season annuals are not new, but they may be unfamiliar. They consist of a group of plants that can handle, and prefer, some degree of cooler temperatures and many are frost tolerant. You may recognize some cool season vegetables like lettuce, peas, and spinach. These plants establish best when cool temperatures, below 70 degrees, are present. Cool season flowers are useful for filling the blooming gap between early season bulbs like tulips and daffodils and warm season annual flowers that are not frost tolerant like Zinnias, Dahlias, and Cosmos. Some hardy annuals like Ornamental Kale, are also useful in the cool fall season. 

One cool season annual flower that may be familiar is the Pansy. However, if you want to grow cool season flowers for cutting or just want something different that blooms early in the season, here are a few you may or may not be familiar with: 

• Bachelor
• Buttons
• Snapdragon
• Ornamental Kale
• Feverfew
• Stock
• False Queen
• Anne’s Lace
• Larkspur
• Sweet Pea
• Lisianthus
• Love in a Mist
• Poppies
• Bells Of Ireland
• Orlaya
• Corn Cockle
• Calendula

Warm Season Annuals

Unlike cool season annuals, warm season annuals are not frost tolerant. Also referred to as tender annuals, they cannot survive and thrive in cold conditions. They are best planted after all danger of frost has passed. For my area of Waterloo, Wisconsin, the hardiness zone is 5b. This has changed in the past 10 years from the former hardiness zone of 5a. Some warm season annuals are:

• Cosmos
• Zinnia
• Amaranth
• Sunflower
• Marigold
• Celosia
• Dahlia
• Ageratum
• Impatiens

Biennials

Biennials are perhaps the most confusing category for many gardeners and plant lovers. Biennials grow only leaves the first year. The second year they flower, set seed, and die. They are useful because they are often flowering between spring bloomers and many summer perennials. One of the most common types of biennials is Foxglove. I have had many customers mention their frustration that their Foxglove didn’t bloom. This is because the plant’s growth cycle was not understood. I grow biennials from seed started in summer, plant small plants in the fall, and get blooms the following spring. You can allow biennials to drop their seed to always have plants that are in each stage of the life cycle. This ensures there are flowers each year. Some annuals act as biennials depending on when they are planted. One example, would be fall planted Poppies. Here are a few biennials I think are worth growing:

• Foxglove
• Sweet Rocket
• Iceland Poppies
• Sweet William
• Money Plant

Perennials

Woody Perennials 

Defined = Plants which maintain a woody structure of branches and stems above ground at all times, these include trees and shrubs.

Herbaceous Perennials

Defined = A plant whose growth dies down annually, but whose roots or other underground parts survive.

In simple terms, perennials are plants that return each year. Where the confusion can lie is that there is a differentiation between herbaceous and woody perennials. For the sake of simplicity,  I am referring to Herbaceous Perennials, those plants that die to the ground and then come back and grow each season. Common herbaceous perennials are Daylily and Hosta. Some of my favorite perennials are:

• False Indigo
• Goatsbeard
• Yarrow
• Black Eyed Susan
• Geum
• Hellebore
• Echinacea (Coneflower)
• Anemone
• Gooseneck Loosestrife
• Sanguisorba
• Sedum
• Catmint

Final note: Keep in mind that there is some overlap between annuals, biennials, and perennials depending on the growing situation, varieties used, and intended use. I hope with a basic explanation of annuals, biennials, and perennials, you have gained a better understanding of this somewhat confusing terminology. 

Forcing blooms 

Once the holiday lights are down, my house really starts to look a bit dark and boring. I miss having flowers in the house during the dark days of winter. One of the little things that brings cheerful beauty inside is to bring in some cut branches. Plus, there are benefits besides the obvious. Winter pruning helps me to find a productive excuse to get outside on days when the temperatures are above freezing. Added bonus, most established shrubs can use a little yearly pruning and in most specimens, the best time to do that is during the dormant season. 

I’ll give you the basics for cutting branches for forcing. However, have fun with it. It’s interesting to see how many different types of branches can be forced. You won’t be hurting anything if it doesn’t work so just give it a try. You will be surprised how excited you will get when the first bloom starts to open!!!! When it does, take a picture and send it to me. I will be just as excited as you.

How to cut branches 

1. To cut branches for forcing, you will need a pruner and/or lopper. It’s best for the branches, and you, to choose a day when the temperatures are above freezing. This will help the branches more easily acclimate once inside.
2. Cut from mature specimens, typically over 3 years old, and only cut those branches which are not vital to maintain the overall shape of the shrub or tree. You may wish to space out the branches you remove so the tree or bush that remains outside maintains an even appearance and bloom in spring. Cut 1- 2 ft branches with an angled cut. Don’t be intimidated about making the correct angled cut. Just shoot for a 45 degree angled cut and anything close will be fine.

Arranging and caring for cut branches

1. After bringing your branches inside, choose a vase to display them in. Make sure to choose a heavy vase or waterproof container that can handle the weight of the branches without toppling over. 
2. Fill the  vase with warm water. I also add a few drops of bleach (a few drops only!) to inhibit bacterial growth.
3. Make sure to remove any buds or leaves that would be submerged in water.  Leaving these on will only contribute to bacterial growth.
4. Recut the stems at a 45 degree angle and immediately add to the vase. Fussy arranging is not necessary, but arrange them as you wish. All the branches in the pictures for this article, were just cut at similar heights and plopped in the vases without any special arranging. 
5. Make sure to change the water every few days (adding a few drops of bleach) to inhibit bacterial growth . 
6. Be patient!!! Forsythia will bloom in 10 days or so, but some other specimens can take 3-4 weeks.

*** If the branches have not bloomed within a month, it is likely they did have enough cold weather to set their blooms. Try again! It’s all about experimentation. The easiest blooms to force are forsythia and pussy willow. While trees tend to be the most uncertain. You can force blooms all the way up to the time they will naturally be blooming outside. The closer you get to their natural outdoor bloom time, the more likely and more quickly they will bloom indoors.

Types of branches for forcing

• Fruit trees
  • Ornamental and Fruiting Pear 
  • Apple and Crabapple 
  • Serviceberry/Juneberry/Amelanchier
  • Cherry
• Ornamental Trees
  • Red bud
  • Willow
  • Magnolia
• Shrubs
  • Pussywillow 
  • Forsythia
  • Rhododendron
  • Quince
  • Lilac
  • Serviceberry
  • Viburnum

Other ways to make your day a little brighter 

Buy fresh flowers from a local florist for yourself or someone else.

Propagate your houseplants (blog topic coming soon!).

Get your seed starting supplies together. https://www.shawnlvieth.com/seedstart1

Floral quote : Where flowers bloom, so does hope

Lady Bird Johnson

Red Bilita Flowers by Shawn L. Vieth LLC
838 E. Madison St.
Waterloo, WI 53594